RESTORATION ADDS EXCITEMENT
By John Garganigo
in The Ladue News
In the highly competitive restaurant business, you can never rest on your
laurels. After solidifying a strong home base in the years that Jimmy Kristo
has been at 706 Demun in Clayton, he has now added a new and exciting
dimension with his recent restoration.
The result comes from teaming
Kristo with Rick Yackey, a renowned rehabber. The main entrance has been
moved one door north and now serves as the entryway for the Bistro, a room
with distinctive decor.
Along one side , the bar has a massive granite top
and sides cut from old garage doors. The flooring is of multi-colored mosaic
marble saved from an old hospital. This is one of the most unusual and
eye-catching bars in town. Its focus is an off-center fireplace with a huge
overhanging chimney. This space features two menus, one for the bistro (with
limited fare and lower prices) the other, a standard menu. Diners may order
from both in either dining area.
Derek Craig, who came on board two years
ago as executive chef, still heads the kitchen. Greg Shoults who has worked
the front of the restaurant since its early days, contributes his charm and
witty repartee. A team like this keeps a place running smoothly.
From the
Bistro menu we selected the smoked trout ($8.95), which was presented on a
platter surrounded by crisp toasted bread with cream cheese dotted with
specks of red onion and capers. Much appreciated was the fact that the trout
was neither overly salty or overly smokey.
From the "dinner menu," I chose
the tuna tartare ($7.25), an appetizer made with the freshest sushi-grade
tuna served on a dollop of sticky rice. The tuna was mixed with a soy-lime
vinaigrette that had a nice bite. The spiciness did not come from the usual
wasabi, but from the judicious use of a chili-garlic sauce with cilantro.
Served with crisp flour chips similar in texture to tortilla chips, this was
a splendid dish. Fresh bread, with virgin olive oil for dipping, was served
immediately upon seating.
At Jimmy's, a dish that captured my fancy ever
since I first had it some nine years ago is the cedar plank salmon ($18.50).
Cooked in the oven on a cedar plank that has been thoroughly soaked, the
salmon fillet maintains all its internal moisture. The fish was cooked
medium rare, as ordered, and it couldn't have been better. A compote of
walnuts and Granny Smith apples added a nice sweetness that played well
against a sauce of pancetta in a vinegar reduction that was almost
caramelized. Add to that a side of quinoa with a mirepoix that resembled a
risotto in texture and three fresh asparagus spears, and you have a
well-rounded dish.
Pan-seared duck ($19.25) is the classic French maigret,
seared and cooked for about 10 minutes so that the meat is still pink in the
middle. Served with a barley risotto and a raspberry sauce with a touch of
spicy chipotle, it was well received. One needs the sweetness of the
raspberry to play against the natural gaminess of the duck breast. The
walnut apple compote would have also gone well with this dish.
Desserts
are made on the premises, and even though I didn't order any on this
occasion, I can vouch for the crème brulee and the bread pudding.
A
selection of wines is available by the glass changes daily. On this occasion
a Columbia Crest merlot and a Kenwood Sauvignon Blanc were both available by
the glass at $6.25 and %5.95, respectively. Service was very good.
Everything added up to an evening that was most pleasant. The new room
should be a hit for years to come. --LN
