Dining with the Upper Crust

Jimmy's Cafe on the Park
It Merits 'The Buzz'

story by Audra Shanley

Tucked next to a few antiques stores in a quiet shopping district in Clayton, Jimmy's Cafe on the Park is bringing out scores of St. Louisans to sample straightforward fare with a twist.  Whether it's the quiet location away from the bustle of downtown Clayton, the 100-plus caricatures of regular customers on the walls, or the buzz surrounding the eatery since its opening in December 1994, Jimmy's has caught the attention of the eat-out crowd.  Businessman Dennis Roussel, who is debuting in the restaurant business, and Peggy and Jimmy Kristo, a longtime veteran on the restaurant scene, signed a lease for 706 De Mun Ave., the very day they saw the space that formerly housed a "mom and pop" market.

"We stood here for hours. The other shopkeepers kept coming in to talk to us and kids kept going by. It was like that spot I've been looking for

all my life. It's what you imagine restaurants were in the 1940's or 1950's," says Kristo.  Krista's ideal setting is complemented by "major players," like his father, Tom Kristo, a long timer at Tony's and the Top of the Sevens, and chef Kathy Schmidt (Chez Louis and The Seven Gables).  Jimmy Kristo says the restaurant is casual. "We've always agreed we wanted a place for suits and ties, but jeans too. Basically, a place you can 'fall in.' "

The mood is set as you walk through the door by a wall of caricatures of the owners, their families and many of the staff. World's Fair Caricature artists Todd Bauman and Ken Gerber have already "cartooned" 150 notables.  The restaurant has room for about 600 frames. So who gets on the wall?  "Mostly good customers," says Kristo." We are making them stars, which is fun."  Diner Terry Hinkle of Webster offers his opinion on the eatery: "This is one of the nicest menus I have read in a long time. There were so many choices that sounded interesting, it was hard to decide."

Suggested starters: Spinach and Gorgonzola Ravioli ($4), a light appetizer of wonton skins stuffed and served in chicken stock with some tomatoes and pine nuts, and the Potato Pancake ($5), served with several portabella mushrooms in a veal sauce. Firehouse Shrimp and The Gobbler ($6) is a dish of grilled shrimp with chipolte peppers, tomatoes and cream, doused with Wild Turkey liquor and served over noodles. The Crash Cake (taking it's name from the nickname of the chef) blends crabmeat with salmon and sea scallops. The pizzas come highly recommended by diners. Grilled Pescatore ($7 for lunch, $9 for dinner), has shrimp, scallops and calamari in a spicy sauce, and Roasted Veggie ($6 for lunch, $7.50 for dinner), spotlights the best in seasonal vegetables. For a tableside treat (with the Kristo men as toss-masters), try Tommy's Millionaire Salad ($6 per person), which packs shrimp, crabmeat, turkey, ham, bacon, two cheeses, egg, tomato, radishes and caviar into a delicious, although caloric, salad.

Among five pasta offerings, Tenderloin Fettuccine ($12) is a clear favorite with diners. A combination of peppered tenderloin, sun-dried tomatoes, artichokes, scallions, and crumbled gorgonzola, the dish is served with a tomato-basil sauce.  Lunch offerings include a Turkey Burger ($6.75), Caesar Salad ($9.75) topped with chicken, calamari or salmon, and Vegetable Spinach Burrito ($6.25). Fritatta offerings include Rosemary Pesto with brie and tomatoes ($6.25), Peppered Tenderloin with bacon and cheddar ($6.50), and Fresh Vegetable and Salsa ($5.75).

On the lengthy list of dinner entrees, Plank Salmon ($12), rubbed with dry mustard and cracked pepper and served with a ginger-peach chutney, is a growing favorite. The two top sellers: Stead Kenwa ($12.75), a sirloin topped with wild mushrooms, asparagus and leeks in a Jack Daniel's sauce; and Tenderloin Anthony ($12.75), marinated tenderloin of beef, topped with shrimp and blue cheese.

Lunch is served from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tuesday through Friday. Dinner is from 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and from 5 to 11:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Jimmy's is closed Sunday and Monday. "We all work and rest together and I hope that can continue," says Jimmy Kristo. "Right now this is really a family thing. We are living the dream."